Marc Colin, Domaine Leflaive
Perhaps surprisingly, Puligny has only 12 significant individual producers. It's a third smaller than Chassagne and is more white wine oriented than its southern neighbour - a big change in the last few decades. The wine at its best is both floral and steely. St-Aubin produces Chardonnays with backbone too, and some impressive reds from good sites. It is a perennially underrated source of great quality and value wine.
Now very ably run by Damien, Domaine Marc Colin has very successfully negotiated what can be the tricky waters of succession planning and generational change. The best of St-Aubin to go with the best of Puligny, they make very fine reds, but are better known for their superb whites, which sang when we tasted them in October last. I think Damien is making the best wines in the domaine's history.
Talking of the best producers in Puligny, here is Domaine Leflaive, the crème de la crème. Not to be confused with other lesser Leflaives, Anne-Claude reigns supreme over her biodynamic domaine. The only problem is the incredible demand for these wines. /CW
Tomorrow
Chassagne-Montrachet
Thursday 26 January
2010 Burgundy barrel sample tasting 12-8pm, £25 per person inc VAT (redeemable against 2010 Burgundy en primeur purchases over £500)
