Benoit Droin, Christian Moreau

Nowhere to stay, nowhere to eat, only white wine. Those are the three reasons to avoid going to any village usually, but then the chalky hills of Chablis are home to Christian and Fabien Moreau and Benoit Droin, two families who between them make some of the best Chardonnay anywhere. So then, vaut le detour indeed.

Young Benoit Droin wants to make the best Chablis that he can. Sounds obvious, but he does it with a great deal more thought and focus than many of his peers. There's a much larger range at this address and tasting through all levels is like a masterclass in this peculiar terroir. At two extremes try the Mont de Milieu versus the Montee de Tonnerre. Both highly individual expressions of antediluvian seabed at its best.

Fabien is firmly in day-to-day control of Domaine Christian Moreau as Christian himself is ambassador for both the house and for Chablis itself and travels the world tirelessly promoting both and having fun. Both father and son are immensely likeable but even if they weren't we'd still be queuing up to buy their fabulous wines. One day they'll bring their village wine over; even that is amazing. /CW

View all 2010 Burgundy en primeur listed so far

Tomorrow
Beaune, Pommard, Volnay

Thursday 26 January
2010 Burgundy barrel sample tasting 12-8pm, £25 per person inc VAT (redeemable against 2010 Burgundy en primeur purchases over £500)