J-M Boillot, Comte Armand, Drouhin, Lafarge
Three very different sources for wine today as we head south of Beaune, and almost the full spectrum of types of producer, so we can offer wines of power, grace and ageability.
Mostly estate wines, with just a couple where fruit is bought in, but you can't tell the difference. As ever Jean-Marc Boillot's work in the cellar doesn't vary and the wines are vintage- and terroir-specific, though I would say on tasting that these will be earlier drinkers than some we tasted. They'll definitely be worth tasting next week.
Having converted to organic farming from 1993 under Pascal Marchand, Comte Armand's current manager Benjamin Leroux began the move to biodynamic cultivation at the beginning of the millennium. The success of this is partly helped by the relatively large size of the domaine's plots and, in the monopole Clos des Epeneaux, by the 200 year old wall. Fantastic, age worthy wines: Benjamin says the Clos des Epeneaux is the best he's ever made.
Although by Burgundian standards a large firm, Maison Joseph Drouhin is fastidious and as well as the broad view is deeply concerned with detail. Thus the whole domaine is now cultivated organically, while they buy all their own oak for barrels, which is seasoned for three years before being handed over to Francois Freres to be made into barrels. This extra seasoning time over what the standard barrel gets is very influential in the purity of the eventual wine.
Frederic and Michel Lafarge both seem to have softened over the years and are chattier and more relaxed than they used to be. The 2010s were as easy to taste as the 2009s, with as much matter and depth but a different balance. Michel reckons 2010 to be most like 1989, or even that legendary vintage 1962.
View all 2010 Burgundy en primeur listed so far
Tomorrow
Since we are still awaiting final confirmation from Chassagne, tomorrow's offer will be Puligny and St-Aubin
Thursday 26 January
2010 Burgundy barrel sample tasting 12-8pm, £25 per person inc VAT (redeemable against 2010 Burgundy en primeur purchases over £500)
