Taupenot-Merme: not double barrelled for nothing

The first time we tasted this wine it had scarcely finished its malo. A year later it was already raring to go; glinting with diamond-fresh red fruit, multi-faceted with spice, minerals and freshness.

More recently Jim's note says: 'Earthy notes, fresh, red/black crunchy fruit, wild forest fruits, good energy with cool control. It's Gevrey but with Morey-St-Denis fingerprints all over it. Fabulous example for 2008.'

And now, having been back to the domaine and re-tasted we're truly smitten. It's five years old and this is a super village wine at a great price. It's from a producer whose attention to detail is second to none (regular readers will remember his auditioning process for coopers); fastidious ain't in it. Best of all, it's here, and if you're eating anything which had flight capability at Christmas this is a no-brainer. /CW