“Splendid, structured wines in which terroir character comes through loud and clear”
- Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, Oct/Nov 2011
The growth in popularity of Barolo across the world of serious wine lovers has long been foretold by a look at Uncorked staff purchasing. La Morra makes some of the easiest drinking Baroli on its fertile clay soils, while Monforte and Serralunga wines tend to be much more structured and longer-lived. Castiglione Falletto sits on a spur between the two and reflects that position in its wines.
Azelia adopts a quasi-biodynamic approach to its growing. I know that for some people a statement like that will have hackles rising but it's pragmatic. They are doing what they can in the damp and reaping fruit packed with energy as a result. Clerico's vineyard and cellar staff have long been adherents of his methods and his prolonged illness has made no difference to the wines, though some critics' consistent inability to taste after racking might make you think otherwise. With their father the Scavino daughters have made another series of super-expressive wines. Their ambitions for the quality of the estate are being realised.
Lest you think that all is rosy in Barolo though, with universally perfect management in the vineyards, know that, having rented a fabulous Serralunga vineyard from an older inhabitant for his new Aeroplan Servaj cuvée, Clerico was held up at gunpoint during the green harvest: its owner was aghast at Domenico's search for better quality. /CW
On tasting at our Bishopsgate shop today: 2008 Voerzio Barbera Cerreto, 2007 Marcarini Barolo La Serra, 2006 Schiavenza Barolo Prapo, 2004 Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc
Offered subject to confirmation for shipment 2013