A legend in the making

Of all the super-prestige Champagnes, Cristal is the one that needs the least introduction. Except that few people seem to realise that behind the image of bling lies an extraordinary wine with an extraordinary genesis. Created for Czar Alexander 2nd as a unique, one-customer product, Cristal has always been blended from grand cru wines from the three best areas of Champagne. It is only made in the best vintages and is often drunk far too young. Production of this super-Roederer is much more limited than some prestige Champagnes and so in the medium to long term has always represented a good investment.

2006 has turned out to be a magic year for Champagnes, though it was a year of very hard work for vignerons. This was particularly true during the cool and rainy August, but - as so often - the crucial month was September, which was warm and dry. The fruit was perfectly ripe and healthy, and had retained acidity often lost in August heat. For the techies, the blend is 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay. 20% of the wine is matured on its lees in old oak vats and there is no malolactic.

The excitement around this wine is palpable - we urge you not to miss out. /CW

Available November