2010 Pégau Réservée en primeur; 2009 upgraded
"Pégau comes closest to achieving the same glory as Henri Bonneau's Célestins" - Robert Parker
The Féraud family goes back a long way in Châteauneuf-du-Pape: the family has been producing wine in the region since 1670. Laurence Féraud learnt winemaking from Paul-Vincent Avril at Clos des Papes before joining her father, Paul, in 1987. Paul Féraud was a school classmate of the legendary Henri Bonneau, and the two remain great friends. As Parker says, 'I suppose that it is not just a coincidence that of all the wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Pégau's Cuvée Réservée and Cuvée Laurence come closest to achieving the same glory as Henri Bonneau's Cuvée des Célestins.' And he should know, having bought every vintage since the 1979 for his own cellar.
Despite the breathtaking array of wines father and daughter have produced over the past quarter century together, few rival their two latest vintages released. Comparisons with the outstanding duo produced exactly two decades previous are inevitable. 'Like the 1989 and 1990 Cuvée Réservées, it may be impossible to pick a favorite between the 2010 and 2009,' says Parker: 'As I recall, Paul has always favored the 1990, Laurence the 1989.'
In 2010 the same factors that affected Burgundy also took their toll on Rhone production. Very uneven flowering caused low yields while a cool growing season meant that these preternaturally intense wines gained hugely in the freshness stakes. So with immense concentration and fine acidity Pégau has fashioned one of the most elegant, fresh giants of a Châteauneuf you'll ever taste. Small production helped of course, but the genius of Laurence lies in her ability to read the fruit she has and she's added yet another storming success to her recent run of triumphs. While 2009 got more time in cask than usual - and along with 2010 - will reward further aging, 2008 is a vintage you might want to have delivered soon - it is deliciously drinkable. Try 12 bottles of each of the three vintages and save £75 on the parcel: it could be the beginning of a beautiful vertical, from a domaine clearly on a roll. /AR
