It is one of the great Rioja Gran Reservas. It's only made in the best vintages, and it's built to last. It's been gracing Spanish and international tables since the 1920s, and it was the only red wine served at the wedding of King Felipe VI of Spain. It gets a winery all to itself, with a barrel cellar that was designed by Gustave Eiffel, he of the tower. It is produced from low-yielding, dry farmed bush vines from top vineyard sites in Rioja Alta. It is CVNE Imperial, and 2019 is an outstanding vintage.
The cool start to 2019 in Rioja meant fewer grapes set on the bunches, but the rest of the season unfolded in pretty much ideal conditions. So while the final harvest was small, it was very high quality, with concentrated fruit brought to the winery in pristine condition.
The result is an elegantly layered wine, with vibrant acidity and well-integrated tannins. It's mostly Tempranillo, with a spicing of Graciano (for perfume) and Mazuelo (for structure). It's been raised in a mix of French and American oak; the French oak brings a note of dusty char, and the American oak brings sweeter vanilla and clove. It's aromatically very intense, marrying wild berry notes with coffee, nutmeg and cigar smoke. While it's very rewarding already, the fruit and tannic core is still tight. It will unfurl beautifully in your cellar. /NT
