Another embarrassingly great vintage

Auckland estate Kumeu River has crafted a reputation as a world-class Chardonnay producer. But winemaker Michael Brajkovich is a little reticent about introducing their 2021s: `I've never seen a run of vintages of this quality before. In fact it's getting a bit embarrassing. When we say it's another great vintage, people are going to stop believing us!`

It didn't start well, to be fair. Spring frosts decimated the vineyards around Auckland, meaning low yields and less wine. But after the frosty start, the growing season was constant, warm and dry. It never got very hot, which meant the grapes could mature slowly - a great thing for the development of complex aromas and flavours.

As ever, Coddington is the richest cuvee, dominated by notes of peach and apricot. Hunting Hill is more lemon and lime, with floral top notes. Ray's Road is a relatively new site, but firing on all cylinders this vintage, and a fabulous addition to the range. And the Estate Chardonnay has come very close in quality to the single vineyards. All of these wines have a vital spine of energy that makes them compelling drinking. /NT

Offered subject to remaining unsold; available Autumn 2023