The 2018 Barolo from Bartolo Mascarello is attractive, but also two-dimensional relative to the very best years. Dark cherry, plum, tobacco, cedar, incense and licorice all open in the glass. The 2018 is a bit strict in its tannins, but is developing well. Give it at least a few more years in bottle. This is the first year the Mascarello Barolo reached 15% in alcohol. As such, it is an outlier. 94 points

Just mid ruby with orange tinges. An enticing, savoury minerally nose. Succulent and youthful palate with satin-like yet persistent tannins. Very long and elegant but with plenty of concentration. A fine balancing act. Such a long, juicy finish! 17.5 points