Delicious and full-bodied, this offers aromas of pine forest, spiced plum, leather and fragrant purple flowers. On the enveloping palate, noble tannins support ripe Morello cherry, raspberry jam and baking spice before a licorice close. Drink 2027–2032. 96 points

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is wild and spunky, presenting a mix of sweet rose and raspberry contrasted by savory herbs, hints of sawdust and white pepper. There are depths of tart red berries, spices and minerals on the palate, drenching the senses in primary concentration, yet zesty acids maintain notable balance. A coating of fine tannins lingers through the long, structured finale, along with echoes of violet, blueberry skins and licorice. There is simply so much going on in this glass, but it has the balance to improve through medium-term cellaring. 93 points