Traditionalist Chateauneuf from an irrepressible spirit
Most estates in Chateauneuf-du-Pape are busy releasing their 2020 vintages. But at Domaine du Pegau, Laurence Feraud marches to the beat of her own drum, and is only just releasing her 2019 Cuvee Reservee. She doesn't like to be hurried and neither, she argues, does her wine.
Laurence is the irrepressible force of nature behind her family's wines. The Feraud family have been involved in winemaking since the 17th century, but it was only when Laurence returned from wine school in 1987 that she convinced her parents to constitute Domaine de Pegau. Under her stewardship, Pegau has taken its place in the top tier of Chateauneuf estates.
Winemaking here is resolutely traditional. The Cuvee Reservee is mainly Grenache mixed with a little Syrah and Mourvedre, but packs in a total of ten other grape varieties for a complex final blend. The grapes are not destemmed. They are fermented in concrete tanks with natural yeast, then aged for two years in old oak foudres. The black fruit and garrigue notes of the youthful wine will in time evolve into notes of dried stone fruits, leather and sandalwood. /NT
'Dark red robe; the bouquet is rich, generous, has a sweet heart of Grenache plum fruit with a nibble of herbs. It carries the implicitly sweet nature of the vintage, and will vary well over time. The palate also projects a good Grenache story, with a layered, rolling display of plum and raspberry fruit, some thickness in the tannins. It holds its line well, is nicely natural, authentic, STGT* Châteauneuf, not too modern or polished up, has real integrity. The finish is wholesome, involving. From 2023 to 2045-47. 4.5 stars' - John Livingston-Learmonth, drinkrhone.com, Novemeber 2020
*STGT = soil-to-glass-transfer
Offered subject to remaining unsold; for shipment Spring 2022
