‘Montalcino’s time to shine’ (vinous.com)
It's not surprising that critics and winemakers don't always see eye-to-eye about the merits (or otherwise) of a vintage. Critics may fly in and enjoy the hospitality, or they may just taste remotely; either way, they soon pen a note and move on. Winemakers spend all year in their cellars and vineyards. The vicissitudes of weather and vintage are not for them the source of interesting observations, but sleepless nights and pain on the bottom line. Yet when it comes to 2016 Brunello, there's no disagreement; it is being hailed by both critics and winemakers as the greatest vintage in recent memory.
It was a domino vintage, a year in which everything fell into place in the right order at the right time. Early rain in the season laid down good water reserves for the dry months of summer. A cool spring meant a slow, even start to the growing season. Summer was warm, but never too hot. There were no heat spikes, but there was the wide swing between day and night temperatures that truly great wines seem to demand, the swings that help wines marry ripeness and freshness. 2016 has amply proven Montalcino's ability to produce wines of purity, world class complexity, and longevity.
Lisini is among Montalcino's most respected estates. They are also one of the most traditionalist, as befits a family who have a history that goes back to the time of the Medicis; they are proud to say they are the last of the region's founding families still making wine here. Their estate is one of the few in the south-west of the region, surrounded by woodland and wild scrub; it is a warm area, but their vineyards are high up, and the combination of altitude, complex soils and low-yielding, old-vine Sangiovese gives a wine of rare expression. Ludovica Lisini is proud to say they have never owned a barrique, but have always depended on traditional long fermentations and large botti. With inviting floral top notes, a firm, seamless frame, a powerful spine of acidity and an uncommon depth of character, 2016 Lisini captures the very best of a Montalcino vintage that will be talked about for decades to come. /NT
'The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino excites the senses with a wonderfully pure and fruity display of wild strawberries, woodland herbs, wet stone and flowery undergrowth. Both savory and sweet, the textures are like silk, with waves of ripe red fruits and spices which give way to salty minerals, licorice, hints of black tea and a coating of fine tannin. While youthfully structured, there’s a juicy freshness to be found throughout, creating harmonious balance and symmetry that makes the 2016 Lisini so easy to like already. That said, the best is yet to come. Drink 2024 - 2034.' - 95 points, Eric Guido, vinous.com, November 2020
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Offered subject to remaining unsold; for shipment Autumn 2021
