Lisini: warm hearts; cool thinking
Having recently offered you the flagship Ugolaia we now turn to Lisini's superb 2015 Estate wine. The Lisini family have retained their ultra-traditionalist approach to Brunello for over 150 years since they moved from Chianti to Montalcino. They only grow Sangiovese; they've never had a barrique and a few years ago they split with their then - quite traditional - consultant because they were worried he might be a tad modern. But if any of this sounds as though they're in the business of making austere wines, think again. The family is driven by fun; their strict approach is all about producing Brunello of pleasure with luscious fruit, fine tannins and juicy acidity.
Ludovica and Giulio Lisini share a strong ethos that has also driven the family for generations. Ludovica's aunt Elina was one of the founders of the Montalcino consorzio and subsequently its president and the sense of responsibility has been passed down. The Lisinis are faithful to the spirit of the purest form of Sangiovese and they respect their customers. While making one of the best Brunellos of the vintage their price remains extremely reasonable in comparison to some of their more modern friends in Montalcino.
Their vineyards lie on the southern flank between Castelnuove dell'Abate and Sant'Angelo in Colle at an altitude of 300-350 metres. This is one of the warmest parts of Montalcino, yet even in a warm vintage like 2015 they nailed it with a finely-knit, structured yet fruity, floral and pure Brunello. Even in their vineyards they plant almost exclusively with cuttings from their own vines, excepting a small experiment with some Biondi-Santi clone. The 2015 wants a bit of ageing despite its approachability and delicacy and will be an absolute joy in a few years - say from 2025. /CW
Offered subject to remaining unsold; available Autumn 2020
