I don`t know if it`s just the effect of the vintage or a renewed commitment to his Crozes, but Sorrel`s 2018 Crozes Hermitage is the best I`ve ever tasted at this address. Like all the reds this year, it was fermented as whole clusters, and so while there`s a slight stemmy component, there`s plenty of ripe black cherries and raspberries for balance. Full-bodied and silky, it shows lovely texture, complexity and length. 91-93 points

(used 228-litre cask, malo completed) has shiny black robe. The nose bears a sweet fat in its raspberry fruit, lardon or pork cuts, is a bit grilled. The palate links closely to the nose, is on expressive and immediate black fruit, is really tasty, and the tannins are ripe, adding extra layering – they upholster it well. This is a real pleaser in the best sense. There were only eight instead of 12 casks – not because of mildew, more because of a poor budding. `This is the first time I have used whole bunches – I kept half in 2017. 2018 is a bit ahead of 2017 – it has more matter, length, a lot of fruit,` Marc Sorrel. 13°. Drink 2034-36. 4*