Savoury bilberry, cassis and liquorice, with softer edges of tobacco and brushed leather. This is a take-your-time, unfurl-slowly kind of a wine, with slate tannins and sappy sage herbs giving a drawn-out finish. Ripe without being exuberant, showcasing graceful, sinewy muscles that feel like a signature Lafite, if lighter in style than the greatest vintages. 38% of overall production, 100% new oak. Charles Chevallier technical director, Eric Boissenot consultant. 95 points

The 2012 Lafite-Rothschild has much more fruit concentration and presence on the nose, mulberry, leather, sage and a touch of tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, clean and fresh with impressive purity and body. This feels ‘grand’, beautifully balanced though I find this attenuates a little towards the finish. Drink now, but it will keep another 15 to 20 years. Tasted twice at Bordeaux Index`s Ten Year-On tasting and blind at the Southwold Ten-Year On tasting. 93 points