The continuing rise in quality - and corresponding price - of the top Bordeaux often sees us venture off the beaten track to try and find unsung producers. Strictly speaking, Latour-Martillac doesn't qualify: the wine was discovered as long ago as the nineteenth century, when it formed the base of a wine called Graves Monopole Dry. The soprano Adelina Patti, the most celebrated vocalist of her time, insisted that she would only tour the United States provided it was available at every stopover. In 1936, the red (vintage 1934) was chosen by the Wine and Spirit Benevolent Society of London for the coronation banquet of George VI, so it can actually be said to be the wine of kings. We tasted at the chateau with the affable and unassuming Loïc Kressmann, grandson of Alfred, who bought the estate in 1930. Together with his brother Tristan, and consultant Denis Dubourdieu, the property today is making fine, understated and ageworthy reds and whites from the gravelly summits of the village of Martillac.
'Tasted twice with consistent notes, the Grand Vin is a blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot picked from 1 to 16 October at 45hl/ha. If offers plenty of ripe black plum and mulberry fruit on the nose that evolves a marine-like influence. The palate is medium-bodied with a soft entry that belies that tannins that become more evident towards the finish. There is good weight here, a real class act and the finish is one of the finest that I have encountered on the Grand Vin at this primal stage. Certainly one to look out for once released. 92-94 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal
This morning also saw the release of our final recommendations in St-Emilion - Figeac - and Margaux - Brane-Cantenac:
'Beautiful dark purplish crimson. Subdued nose of fruit. Silky entry leading to a plush, juicy and beautifully focused mid-palate followed by generous fat and a long sappy finish. The wine's profile inevitably reminds us of a Burgundy. Detailed and elegant structure likely to be improved further at the elevage. 92 points.' - Jean-Marc Quarin, quarin.com
Offered subject to availability for shipment spring 2015
Halves & magnums £10 extra per 9 litre case; other formats on request
