The 1985 Fonseca is still youthful in appearance with hardly any ageing on the rim. The nose offers kirsch, sloes and Christmas cake. With time, there are subtle notes of dried fig and dates beginning to emerge and add to the complexity. The palate is medium-bodied and beautifully balanced on the supple, rounded entry. It is not quite as complex as the aromatics, with dates and dried fig, the finish mellow and refined. It is very elegant for a Fonseca, weighty but supremely well focused. This is a fabulous Fonseca that is ready to drink now, but will age for another 30 or 40 years. Drink now-2030+. 93 points

Candied black fruits with a nice dose of floral character and plenty of freshness still going on the palate. Some earthy, mushroom characters reveal the maturity. Not the most opulent of the 1985s, and while it’s still holding up now, I don’t think there’s a long future ahead. 17 points