Rather than the multi-sourced blend of the last several vintages, Zind-Humbrecht’s 2009 Pinot Gris Calcaire consists solely of fruit from young vines in the Clos Windsbuhl. While harvested early even by vintage standards and at higher than vintage-typical acidity, this nonetheless reached 14.5% alcohol even at 13 grams of residual sugar, in part due to the presence of some botrytis. Decadently ripe peach and mirabelle with overtones of musk scent and voluminously fill the mouth, accompanied by a slathering of vanilla cream and caramel. For now at least, the chalk soil and relatively high acidity aren’t however lending the offsetting brightness or cooling effect one would have hoped for, although the modestly sweet finish is certainly persistent. This is one to revisit in the next year or so before attempting to prognosticate. 88 points