The Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 2014 is a blend of 54% Cabernet Franc, 32% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Sauvignon from vines that are being converted to organic, undergoing a 30-day cuvaison with 15% to 40% whole clusters. Around 74% of the crop is matured in 80% new oak, 16% in 1,200-liter oak foudres and the remainder in 1-year old oak. Winemaker Guillaume Pouthier (ex-Chapoutier) has fashioned a bold and opulent bouquet with macerated black cherries and boysenberry jam. But it does not really `sing` of "Pessac-Léognan", not at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannin on the entry, but then there is a wave of ripe, black, grainy fruit infused with graphite and cedar and it finishes in a bravura fashion with a seam of coconut originating from the oak. I would want to just check how the oak integrates with time by bottling and it may merit a higher score then. It`s gonna need a top wine to match the architectural ambitions of its Philippe Starck-designed winery - this is certainly goi ng in the right direction. 90-92+ points

This small but perfectly formed property has less Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend than its illustrious neighbours and tends to make comparatively fresh, elegant, mineral wines. That`s the case here. scented oak, stylish tannins and a core of sweet red fruits and shimmering minerality. 95 points