2004 Marcarini Barolo Brunate

Now, as you all know, Barolo is the ultimate wine. Not just in Italy, but in the whole world. The trouble is, normally you have to spend an absurd amount of money and/or wait an eternity for the thing to mature. But here`s an exception. Brunate is a top cru and 2004 is a top year. Yet Marcarini deliver the goods at a surprisingly modest price. It`s a cerebral wine, not a crowd-pleaser, just as Barolo should be. On the one hand, it`s savoury and truffly. On the other, delicate and feminine. That mixture`s what sets Barolo apart. It`s an ideal wine for cold, dark nights. In fact, it leaves you wanting more of them. Drink it now - preferably over 2 or 3 nights - or cellar it and watch it develop even more complexity over the next 10 years. (AR 08/11/10)