When Jacques Seysses bought the domaine that was to become the eponymous `du jac` in the sixties and then buying some top plots who would have thought that Dujac would become such an influential player in the region. Now in the capable hands of Jeremy and Diana, they continue with their policy of using ripe stems in whole bunch ferments and in 2013 this amounted to 80% whole cluster across the range because of the complete phenolic ripeness in the vineyard.

In the vineyards, amongst other ideas they now, says Alec Seysses, have an aggressive policy of deleafing to promote the ripeness in the fruit. Especially in a year like that with so few sunshine hours, the extra sun exposure and crucially the ventilation are very effective.

There won`t be as much of the Fils et Pere wines in the future. Unfortunately the landowners, especially their Gevrey contracts, think they can do better financially elsewhere, but the Seysses strongly believe that their village wines should be affordable, so only if they can find equally good land in suitable condition will future supplies be guaranteed. As ever an exciting domaine to visit. (CW 18/11/14)