1,200 cases, just 3% of the vineyard production. 30th anniversary of the Symington acquisition of this property. Foot trodden in lagares. Earliest ever harvest at Vesuvio, starting on 28 August. Yields 15% below the Quinta’s 10-year average. Fruit from mature plantings of Touriga Franca from the Vale da Teja sections of Vesuvio (35%), the Touriga Nacional from the high-lying Vinha das Minas and Raposa parcels (33%), the Sousão from the Minas and Quinta Nova vineyards (15%) and the Alicante Bouschet from Castelos (12%), plus 5% Tinta Amarela. The Sousão component was larger because of its important contribution to acidity. Baumé 3.9, TA 4.37 g/l. Dark purple with purple rim. The fruit character is less wild here than in the Graham’s and Stone Terraces, more domesticated black fruit and yet just as pure and still with fine bergamot from the Touriga. Sweet baking spice on the palate leading in to highly textured tannins, as if the texture itself was spicy, but fine like layers of paper. Dense, packed with potential and less approachable than the Dow’s and Warre’s, less obviously sweet on the mid palate. But the long finish is sweet and utterly pure fruit. Wonderful persistence. 18.5 points

The 2017 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port was picked from August 28, the earliest on record and the Symingtons single out the Touriga Franca as the foundation of its quality for imparting all-important freshness. It has a fragrant and more floral bouquet compared to its peers, not as intense as either Warre’s and Cockburn’s with scents of blackcurrant, Medjool dates, raspberry preserve and raisin, well defined, although you are convinced that this Vesuvio is holding something back. The palate is smooth with lace-like tannin, very well judged acidity, quite powerful and dense with a voluminous black plum and blackcurrant finish with hints of espresso and mint. This is a fine Vesuvio although, it lacks the profundity of its peers in this vintage. Tota l production 1,200 cases. 92 points

A blend of the Tourigas with Sousão, Alicante Bouschet and Tinta Amarela: very different from the other Symington estate wines, lifted and aromatic on the nose with a touch of green leaf and ginger (Land of Green Ginger?) with a wild, herbal edge; lovely freshness on the palate, all the way through, not especially big with peppery tannins but showing near perfect purity, leading to a long linear finish. Should be approachable early but will last the course. 17.5 +? points