The 2017 Pinot Noir, which includes 12% whole bunches, matured for 10 months in 37% new oak (François Frères). It has a light red currant and cranberry bouquet with just a hint of rooibos in the background, the oak nicely integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly grainy tannin, crisp tart red cherry mixed with raspberry fruit and a nicely structured finish. Fine. 90 points

Continuing the subtle changes that have occurred under Emul Ross, the Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir is now a worthy stable mate for the estate’s Chardonnay. This shows the acidity of the 2017 vintage, with a fine perfume of wild strawberry and dried mushroom, subtle wood and a dense, complex, savoury finish. Drink 2019-27. 95 points

Classically styled 2017 eases onto the palate with poise & grace, revealing layers of flavours - cooked red berries, leather, truffles, tobacco - all bound together by restrained, supportive oak (37% new). Combo of wholebunch & destemmed fruit gives crunchy texture to lengthy finish. 93 points