Representing a step up from the estate’s entry-level Riesling, this diversely sourced 15,000-bottle batch displays juicier, riper though still zesty lemon and tangerine along with smoky, carnal, mouthwatering savor typical of the best wines from Nackenheim and Nierstein’s collective “Red Slope.” The feel is firm but not at all austere, and the finish penetrates, invigorates and refreshes. (The wine’s name is the title of an autobiography, famous in Germany, by Karl Zuckmayer, a Nackenheim native and naturalized American best known for scripting The Blue Angel, and whose satirical, not-so-thinly-disguised portrait of Weingut Gunderloch in a hit 1925 play first earned him and the winery notoriety. About the unfortunate translation utilized on this wine’s English-language label, the less said the better. 90 points