Even at this stage in this wine’s evolution it displays an opaque, black-tulip core, with a vibrant crimson-claret rim. There follows an amazing nose, rich in fruit but also in savoury, smoky and minerally elements. The former is all confit black cherry, sweet blackcurrants, soot, tar and rose petals. The palate is pure, polished and rich, with flavours of black cherry stone, remarkably fresh and pure, sinewy, dark and gripped with a ripe substance. A great showing from this property, still so primary, with tightly defined ribbons of fruit and ripe, finely grained tannins the defining features. Long and substantial, this has fine potential, but it needs another decade at least. Hold. 95 points