Over the last twenty years, Benoit Droin has shown an ever more adroit hand, reaffirming Droin`s place in the region`s top tier. In his time in charge he has dialled back on the new oak his father introduced, switched all fermentations to indigenous yeast and, after extensive experimentation, moved to Diam closures for all cuvees - he believes these are a better guarantee of quality and longevity. With an impressive array of crus his wines constitute a fascinating flavour map of Chablis terroir. /NT