2012 Barolo pre-shipment
As Barolo’s popularity continues to climb, we finally have a vintage which will be drinkable in our lifetime! Although one of the attractions of Nebbiolo and Barolo in particular is its ability to age, just occasionally I want to drink something which has achieved much of its potential and is giving me the complexity and resolution I crave in great wine. 2010 will get to that stage some time after I’ve forgotten what the date is or who is Prime Minister. 2008 and 09 similarly, while 2011 won’t be far off. But 2012 is the vintage I’ll be drinking while I’m still more or less compos mentis. For a deeper insight into this world view, consult the songs of Mary Coughlan or later Bruckner symphonies.
Meanwhile, back on topic, and having tasted through quite a few of these wines between us, we find them to be accessible and fruity, with supple tannins and classic freshness. And on paper at least, this is quite a feat. 2012 had a very hot August, with many vines completely shutting down for quite long periods. Often in heat spike vintages, this enforced period of vegetal coma results in dried out wines with harsh tannins and attenuated fruit. But not in 2012, which is why we love working with wine so much. Its constant ability to provide mystery and fascination makes Cleopatra look frankly dull and one dimensional. /CW