(40% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir and 30% Pinot Meunier; L 13 04209 25 10). Pale gold. Fresh pear, tangerine and buttered toast on the mineral-accented nose. Fleshy but focused on the palate, offering juicy citrus and orchard fruit flavors, plus a hint of white pepper that adds back-end lift and cut. Finishes stony and incisive, with a sexy floral nuance coming in late. 91 points

There is a vaguely cider-like quality to the yeasty and citrus-inflected aromas that precede the agreeably intense and delicious flavors that are supported by a moderately firm mousse before concluding in a robust, powerful and mildly austere finish that is sneaky long. This is not a wine of finesse but if you enjoy bold and slightly oxidative Champagne that does offer fine complexity, then this would make a good choice. In short, this is a particular but still quite interesting effort. 91 points