Niepoort 2007 Pisca

Dirk Niepoort is famous for his leadership and forward thinking at his eponymous company. Many believe that he has revolutionised the style of wines coming from the Douro - and elsewhere - with his idiosyncratic collaborations and new approaches. But I think that really he is a conservator and a practising historian.

Whether it's Taylor's Vargellas, Warre's Cavadinha or Niepoort's Pisca, all the great port houses have exceptional estates. Pisca (pronounced Pishca) is the backbone of Niepoort vintage port but this is the first time Dirk has released a portion separately from the main production. Within this century-old plantation there is a large variety of vines planted and, though only a small part of the mix, the old and rare Sousao is a significant presence. I think of Sousao as the Niepoort signature as its hallmark is that freshness Dirk prizes so highly, and it beautifully offsets the richness and density of the fabulous 2007 vintage. Dirk and port maker Nick Delaforce have also revisited some of the old techniques including a full foot treading and ageing in 450 litre pipes rather than in enormous wooden vats as many of the commercially minded do. In another significant nod to the past 2007 Pisca is given longer in those pipes than many wines see in vat and this helps to further smooth the tannins and recalls the days when much port was bottled in the importing country and not in Oporto.

Only a small amount of the best fruit from the best years goes to make vintage port and our allocation of 2007 Niepoort is already sold out. Pisca represents only a small proportion of that 2007 crop and is a must for Niepoort fans. /CW

Offered subject to confirmation for shipment autumn 2010

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