Chapoutier 2010 Selection Parcellaires en primeur

18/05/11

Chapoutier 2010 Selection Parcellaires en primeur

Michel Chapoutier is a funny guy with a dry sense of humour, an iconoclast, a biodynamicist and a lover of the helicopter. He started our tasting of his 2010s by wryly introducing another vintage of the century - adding as an aside that winemakers are all liars. He is fearless and as fond of upsetting the sophisticated consumer as he is his peers in the trade. You could say he is confident in his judgements, though others would describe him as arrogant. He is also mischievous. Did I mention he can make wine? I think he can.

Style. Michel has no style, but his wines do, which is to follow the vintage. So, for instance, there has been amazing variation between the 07s, 08s, 09s and 10s. 2010 was a cool season with some hydric stress for the vines, but mostly the rain came at the right times.

You won't find any oak on the Grenaches, it is quite oxidative enough naturally, thank you. On the other wines, only 20% of the oak used is new. You won't find any cultured yeasts, as natural yeasts also help express - no, scratch that - are part of the vineyard and an essential part of its expression as well as helping keep alcohol levels manageable. In fact they are a sort of vector for terroir. And 2010 is a terroir vintage, Michel says. 09 was a fruit vintage. He's right too. The 09s were generous and fruity at this stage (though that's a dodgy word for Michel, who says that "fruit is to wine what disco is to music"). 10s are intensely mineral with shy fruit character, firmly stuffed with matter, fine tannins and beautiful texture and I think Michel prefers that.

Take note of the one new wine, the Condrieu, as it is the one of these offerings that will need drinking before the next decade begins. Michel's been farming this for years but hasn't owned it until recently so hasn't previously included it in these offerings. /CW

Offered subject to confirmation for shipment 2013

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