2010 Bordeaux en primeur: Mouton, Cheval Blanc, Lafite, Yquem, Le Pin

05/07/11

I was amazed to read in this week's Spectator - in an article about Le Soula - that Lafite fetches $150 a bottle in Beijing. Wait, I should clarify that: $150 for an empty bottle. Yes, we've now arrived at the part of the campaign that's not about the wine. One well established merchant told us last week that it doesn't matter whether they sell their firsts because they can "just go into our investment funds". These are the FTSE 100, the Nasdaq, the Dax, the Cac 40 constituents of the wine world. There's no doubt the chateaux themselves have attached high values to their blue-chip 2010s. A punt on these is a gamble on the future of emerging markets as their owners work hard to broaden their consumer bases. It's also a punt on the future fashionability of wine across the globe. They are wines which a new breed of investor will be adding to their portfolios. They are even - let us not forget - a gamble on how the wines develop with time - a factor which used to be the most important. Surprisingly, we have small amounts with which to make this general offer.

The team at Mouton-Rothschild faced the firing squad if they didn't make a 100-point wine. Phew. 'The 2010 Mouton possesses the highest level of Cabernet Sauvignon (94%) of any wine this estate has produced. Combined with 6% Merlot, the wine achieved 13.9% natural alcohol. Under director Philippe Dalhuin, the harvest was accomplished between September 28 and October 13, and only 49% of the crop made it into this powerful effort. Reminiscent of the 1986, it is a 50-60 year wine that is not meant for consumers looking for near-term gratification. This backward, tannic, full-bodied, exceptionally promising 2010 reveals enormous weight along with extravagant levels of precise, fresh boysenberry and creme de cassis fruit. The abundant minerality is due no doubt to the fresh acidity. In need of at least 15 years of cellaring, it will undoubtedly remain an infant at age 25 (as does the 1986). 97-100 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

Cheval Blanc: 'Brightly coloured wine. Deep, powerful and clean nose of cocoa and raspberries. Magnificent, wonderfully detailed entry. Instantly magical tactile feel on the palate. The wine melts with grace and power. Lifted and deep. Mighty complex finish unfolding layers of gorgeous savours. Terrific! 96 points.' - Jean-Marc Quarin, quarin.com

'This exceptionally rich, thick Lafite came in with the highest level of natural alcohol (13.5%) ever achieved at Lafite Rothschild. To put that in its proper context, the 2009 and 2005 were 13.3% and in the hottest Bordeaux summer ever recorded in over 200 years, the 2003 achieved 12.8%. A blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Merlot, all harvested between October 9 and 14, the 2010 exhibits an extraordinarily dense color, an unctuous texture and sweet black currant fruit intermixed with graphite, charcoal and truffle notes. As director Charles Chevalier told me, between July and the October harvest, Bordeaux had its driest weather since 1949, but it never got excessively hot. Hence the tiny berries, freshness and extraordinary precision of Lafite Rothschild. This superb effort will undoubtedly shut down slightly once it is bottled despite a pH of 3.8. It needs no building up because much of Lafite Rothschild has now become an obsession with the wealthy Chinese and most of it will undoubtedly be consumed before it ever hits its prime. Ideally, it should be cellared for 10-15 years and drunk over the following 50+ years. 98-100 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

Yquem: 'Pale shimmering gold. Mighty nose: botrytised, clean, complex and classy. Broad and melting on entry. Exquisite crystal-like tactile feel on the palate that makes the wine closer to a fine white wine than a sweet white wine. Subtly sapid persistence on finish, enhanced by a splendid magical tactile feel and unique taste. The superb balance between power and delicacy is a stunning tour de force. 95 points.' - Jean-Marc Quarin, quarin.com

Following yesterday's Independence Day celebrations in Bordeaux this afternoon we await our last release of the 2010 campaign. The new "chateau" Le Pin is taking shape, designed by Robbrecht en Daem, the Belgian architect behind the clever remodelling of the Whitechapel Gallery. Jacques Thienpont keeps a watchful eye on proceedings from his modest house adjacent to the vineyard. The ultimate release, the ultimate Merlot, the ultimate terroir wine. 2010: the ultimate Le Pin?

'My best score ever given to Le Pin en primeur. Mighty nose - vibrant and deep. This is pure gold gliding through the mouth: dense, polished, full, with an outstanding melting character. Long and sumptuously hedonistic. Only 14° in alcohol content, which should make the wine all the more enjoyable. 100% merlot. 97 points.' - Jean-Marc Quarin, quarin.com

Halves & magnums £10 extra per 9 litre case; other formats on request

View all 2010 Bordeaux en primeur