2010 Bordeaux en primeur: Leoville-Barton, Gloria, Smith-Haut-Lafittes, Climens, Grand-Puy-Lacoste
14/06/11
After yesterday's French holiday the campaign resumed at 7:16 this morning with the release of one of the UK market's most popular wines. The email from Lilian Barton assured us that the chateau have tried to keep the price of Leoville-Barton "reasonable" and so we have a rise of "only" 15%! Regardless, this is a must-buy for its many loyal followers and we are allocating stock, in the first place, to those who bought last year.
Good value from Lilian's neighbour, Gloria: 'The Gloria '10 has a well-defined bouquet, very precise with ripe blackberry, raspberry, cedar and graphite. Good intensity, very crisp and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins, very good acidity, reserved and focused with a very powerful finish of blackberry, graphite and tobacco. Long in the mouth, this is a great Gloria for long-term ageing. 94-96 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal
Today's also seen releases from two of our favourite properties on the south side of Bordeaux. Aesthetically, no one could argue that Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte ranks among Bordeaux's finest. The same cannot be said of its wines. Since purchasing it in 1990, Florence and Daniel Cathiard have overseen a dramatic transformation in quality here. In the vineyard, everything is done as naturally as possible, including horse-drawn ploughing and making their own compost. These are quintessential Graves wines - both red and white - which display a beguiling combination of power and elegance.
Red: 'A qualitative home run, right up there with the profound 2005 and more opulent 2009, Smith-Haut-Lafitte has turned in a remarkable performance in this vintage, but then again, so have many other chateaux. A blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, the wine has an inky/purple color and an extraordinary nose of graphite, blackberries, cassis, licorice, smoke, and camphor. The unbelievable skyscraper-like texture, stunning purity, and formidable intensity make for a remarkably rich, long, full-bodied wine that is classic Graves, but at the same time a staggering 2010. Drink 2015-2035+. 95-97 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com
White: 'Smith-Haut-Lafitte is consistently among the best white wines in Bordeaux, and this year is no different. The Sauvignon is very dominant here, but what Sauvignon it is – fresh, smoky, sappy and elegant with undertones of grapefruit, wet stones and cream. Delicious now but will improve in bottle. 5+ years. 94 points.' - Tim Atkin MW, timatkin.com
What Yquem is to Sauternes, Climens is to Barsac. Well, except the price is set by the lovely Berenice Lurton instead of LVMH. Berenice told us that there's lots of first wine since the crop was so good. To her, it most resembles 1988. 'Berenice Lurton and her team managed to pick the crop just hours before rains fell on October 23. Tasting through every one of their lots in 2010, there was a theme of tautness, racy acidity and spice. Focusing upon two batches representing about 14% of the harvest, there was patently exquisite balance and a sense of concentrated but efficient power, counterbalanced by immense purity and effervescence. Their problem will be knowing exactly which lots to deselect! 94-96 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal
Other new releases not to be overlooked are Grand-Puy Ducasse, Prieure-Lichine, Lagrange, and Canon-la-Gaffeliere.
Through sheer persistence, we have now secured good stocks of Leoville-Poyferre. Proprietor Didier Cuvelier says it's "2005 plus, plus". Robert Parker rates it exactly the same as Leoville-Las Cases - set to be almost three times the price: 'One of the prodigious wines of the vintage, the Cuvelier family has produced an outstanding 2010 that must tip the scales at 14.5+% alcohol. It boasts an opaque purple color in addition to a sweet perfume of spring flowers, black raspberries, creme de cassis and a hint of spicy oak. This seamlessly constructed St-Julien possesses massive concentration, moderately high tannins, abundant glycerin, an unctuous texture, remarkably fresh acids and wonderful precision. It will benefit from 5-6 years of cellaring and last 30-35 years. 95-98 points.'
Oh, and I nearly forgot. Grand-Puy-Lacoste, not a superstar of the vintage. A megastar. In the first place it's offered to those who've bought previous vintages. /AR
Halves & magnums £10 extra per 9 litre case; other formats on request
View all 2010 Bordeaux en primeur