2010 Bordeaux en primeur: Haut-Batailley, Malartics, Echo, Lynch Blanc, Pagodes

08/06/11

Visitors to Grand-Puy-Lacoste this year might have been alarmed to see the appearance of modern art which wouldn't look out of place at Xavier's brother's Ducru-Beaucaillou. Rest assured, Xavier's cellar decoration may be imitating Bruno's but his wines aren't. They are still full of grace and charm. Just like the man himself!

'The Haut-Batailley '10 is a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Merlot. It has what you might describe as a very "natural" bouquet with wild blackberry, raspberry, just a touch of pencil lead and wet limestone. Not an intense nose, but very well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with very precise tannins, good acidity, just a little hardness at the front-palate, but this will soften. The backbone is very impressive, the finish very masculine, classic, the Cabernet Sauvignon dominating and imparting great purity and expression of terroir. Superb. As always, one of Pauillac's over-looked gems. Drink 2017-2040. 92-94 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal

'My best score ever given to the cru en primeur. Gorgeous colour with dark hues. Extremely clean nose, bursting with fruits. Multi-layered, subtle and juicy, with a glamorous tactile feel on the palate. Well-structured, boasting a long finish laced with impeccable and well-coated tannins. Stunning. A blend of 78% cabernet sauvignon, 22% merlot. Alcohol content: 13°5. 89 points.' - Jean-Marc Quarin, quarin.com

First out of the starting blocks this morning was Malartic-Lagraviere, much improved since its purchase by the Belgian Bonnie family in late 1996, and one of our favourite dry whites of the vintage. 'A spectacular blend of 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Semillon offers lots of honeyed melons, tropical fruit and subtle oak. Brilliant! 93-95 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

Then, action from the mighty Lynch. We don't think you'll see change from £100 for a bottle of the 2010 grand vin so it's a good job Echo is such a star. 'A blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc, the Deuxieme Vin of Lynch Bages has blackberry, wild hedgerow and a touch of tobacco on the nose. Good definition. The palate is medium-bodied with a ripe, succulent entry, powdery tannins with a fine blackberry, raspberry and cassis-tinged finish. Moderate length. Fine. 90-92 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal

And Lynch Blanc just gets better and better. 'A blend of 67% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Semillon and 18% Muscadelle, this has a very fresh lively, well defined nose with citrus lemon, a touch of brioche and fresh tinned pineapple. The palate is very well balanced with fresh citrus fruits, patisserie, lemon curd and a touch of custard crème at the finish. Very good acidity. This is very fine indeed. Drink now-2016. 90-92 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal

Further north, the best second wine we've ever tasted from Cos d'Estournel. 'Possibly the finest Pagodes the estate has produced, as Jean-Guillaume Prats said, this 2010 is better than many vintages of Cos d'Estournel produced in the sixties and seventies. Forty-five percent of the production made it into this blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Merlot that achieved 14.1% alcohol naturally. Plump and fat with an abundant concentration of black fruits as well as outstanding intensity, purity and texture, this beauty should drink well for 10-15 years. 90-93 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

Three releases from St-Emilion which shouldn't be overlooked. 2010 Grand-Pontet is excellent value, powerful yet elegant. From Nicolas Thienpont, of Pavie Macquin, a surprisingly good Berliquet. And Clos de l'Oratoire: 'This has been a wonderfully consistent, satisfying wine since the estate was acquired by Stephan von Neipperg over a decade ago. The 2010 looks to be one of the most powerful and concentrated wines ever made here. Yields were a very modest 30 hectoliters per hectare, and the final blend 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet France achieved a whopping 14.8% natural alcohol. Huge notes of licorice, incense, blackberry and cassis liqueur intermixed with smoke and toast are all present in this full-bodied, opulent, fleshy wine, which has an unctuous texture, super purity, and a long finish. This is a broad, juicy, and savory St.-Emilion that will be drinkable early on and evolve for 12-15+ years. Drink 2013-2026. 92-94 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

As the dust settles on a busy morning in Bordeaux, we regret to report that two of the hottest wines - Pontet-Canet and Calon-Segur - look set to go straight to sold out. Well done to those of you who got them! /AR

Halves & magnums £10 extra per 9 litre case; other formats on request

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