2010 Bordeaux en primeur: Gruaud, Fieuzals, Haut-Bages Liberal, Quinault
07/06/11
It's all happening in Bordeaux this morning following their Chinese bank holiday yesterday.
A year to the day after the release of the acclaimed 2009 comes the eagerly awaited 2010 Gruaud-Larose. Industrious, hugely resourceful, charming yet shy, Jean Merlaut has transformed this second growth from a reliable St-Julien to one of the appellation's star performers.
'This gets my nod as the finest Gruaud Larose since the 2000 and 1990. The opaque purple-colored 2010 exhibits copious notes of Asian plum sauce, spice box, creme de cassis, loamy soil and a beefy/meaty character. It is full-bodied, dense and powerful, with stunning purity and no evidence of brett (a characteristic of the great Gruaud Larose wines made in the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s). Given the 2010's tannin profile, it will require 5-8 years of cellaring and should keep for three decades thereafter. Drink 2016-2046. 92-94 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com
'Inky-purple. Intense aromas of cassis and dark plum are complicated by earthy underbrush. Very sweet and supple in the mouth, with a juicy quality to the bright red cherry, tobacco and mushroom flavors. Finishes with mounting but polished tannins and a hint of white pepper. This is a big wine that comes across as precise and pure, no small feat given its concentration. Yet another strong showing for Gruaud-Larose, following the excellent 2009. Should age very well: drink from 2018 through 2040. 92-95 points.' - Ian D'Agata, internationalwinecellar.com
Have you ever not enjoyed Chateau De Fieuzal? No, nor me, and yet it remains a resolutely unfashionable Pessac-Leognan. But with wines like these, not for long...
Fieuzal Rouge: 'Glass-staining ruby-purple. Sexy aromas of blackberry, blueberry, vanilla, clove and violet. Sweet, juicy and concentrated, with plenty of lift and energy to the creamy, almost syrupy red and black fruit flavors. Very Pessac-Leognan 2010 in its easygoing texture but, unlike many other Bordeaux from this vintage, there is also a multidimensional, smoothly tannic character here that is extremely impressive. The best Fieuzal in years: this is a wine of great balance and fleshy appeal that will provide early accessibility yet age gracefully for decades. Very well done. 91-94 points.' - Ian D'Agata, internationalwinecellar.com
Fieuzal Blanc: 'Boasting a very low pH of only 3, this partially barrel-fermented white ought to be austere, but it's not in the slightest. Creamy, waxy and herbal, with hints of lemon zest and beeswax, some toasty oak and a zesty freshness on the finish. 5+ years. 94 points.' - Tim Atkin MW, timatkin.com
Claire Villars may have made the best Haut-Bages Liberal ever. 'Medium-dark ruby. Fruity, bright aromas of red cherry, red berries and flowers, complicated by cedar and graphite. Then light and lively in the mouth, with strawberry, raspberry and smoky dark cherry flavors complicated by hints of white pepper and gunflint. The finish features a lingering floral note and chewy tannins that will need some time to resolve but seem polished enough to guarantee a bright future. This is an excellent, classically styled Haut-Bages Liberal, just a step below the first growths: I loved its balance, refined texture and sneaky concentration, though it might fail to impress those looking for a large quantity of creamy, soft fruit. 91-94 points.' - Ian D'Agata, internationalwinecellar.com
Helping us out in the shop this month is Pauline Lurton. She says her uncle, who also happens to manage Cheval Blanc and Yquem, is very happy with his third vintage of Quinault L'Enclos, the St-Emilion which Pierre has converted to organic viticulture and which should provide delicious drinking in the short to medium term. /AR
Halves & magnums £10 extra per 9 litre case; other formats on request
View all 2010 Bordeaux en primeur