2010 Bordeaux en primeur: Crock, Moulin Riche, Sarget, Sociando, Doisy-Daene, Goulee, Lafon-Rochet

2010 Chateau Le Crock barrel sample label

25/05/11

Those in the know know that Didier Cuvelier makes the most seductive Leoville. Some of you also know that you don't need to spend £100 a bottle for a glimpse of such brilliance. But did you know that Moulin Riche is not merely a second wine of Leoville-Poyferre? Oh, you did? Like the Delon's Clos du Marquis, Moulin Riche is a vineyard in its own right, situated inland, on the Pauillac side of St-Julien. Distributed exclusively through their own negociant business, previously we'd resisted the temptation of this and Le Crock, their cru bourgeois in St-Estephe. But in 2010 we couldn't. These wines reminded us of our early days at Uncorked, when we had 1990 Le Crock at £11.95. 20 years on, the wines are even better, and, at little more than £20 with current duty & VAT, they are outstanding value.

Le Crock: 'This vineyard, owned by Didier Cuvelier, the proprietor of Leoville-Poyferre, is finally coming to life. A blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot, the 2010 achieved 14% natural alcohol. It exhibits a dense purple color followed by notes of roasted herbs, licorice, fruitcake and black currants. Medium to full-bodied and rich with moderate tannins as well as the distinctive earthy character that often comes from St-Estephe, this broad, savory effort should drink well for 15+ years. Drink 2013-2026. 90-92 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

'Tasted at the chateau, the Moulin Riche is a blend of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 11% Petit Verdot and is showing a lot of oak on the nose with blackberry, a touch of fruitcake, graphite and tar. A hint of mocha emerges with time. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, very supple and rounded but counterbalanced with good acidity, leading to a silky smooth finish polished by judicious creamy oak. Very in keeping with Didier Cuvelier's style. Very fine. Drink from 2012. 90-91 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal

Also yesterday: Sarget, potentially the best we've ever tasted; Sociando-Mallet, the leading cru bourgeois which is more powerful than ever in 2010 yet considerably cheaper than last year; and our second favourite Barsac of the vintage, Doisy-Daene. /AR

This morning, Goulee, which is simply delicious in 2010. 'Cos d'Estournel's Haut-Medoc blend was pretty good in 2009, but it's even better this year. Deeply coloured, nostril-twitchingly aromatic, polished and plush, with forward, juicy, palate-coating flavours of mint, spice and ripe blackcurrant, sweet oak and spicy, silky tannins. A bargain. 10+ years. 93 points.' - Tim Atkin MW, timatkin.com

And a superb Lafon-Rochet. 'Proprietor Basile Tesseron may have produced his finest Lafon Rochet to date. The 2010's inky/blue/purple color is followed by a distinctive bouquet of spring flowers, blueberry pie, blackberry liqueur and crushed rocks. Although a classified growth, this wine is an undeniable sleeper of the vintage as its price remains reasonable. The wine possesses terrific structure, ripe tannins and a voluminous, broad, deep impression on the palate. 3 The fruit intensity, purity and richness suggest 4-5 years of cellaring will be required and the wine will last for 20+ years. Drink 2015-2035. 92-94 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

Halves & magnums £10 extra per 9 litre case; other formats on request

View all 2010 Bordeaux en primeur