2010 Bordeaux en primeur: Brane, Clos du Marquis, Alter Ego, Petit Village, Lascombes, Pavie Macquin, Haut-Bailly, Pichons
16/06/11
Rumours in Bordeaux this morning that next week we'll see first growths. No wonder things have hotted up! And one unconfirmed report that Lafite set their price 4 weeks ago. €1000/bottle: buy or sell? The barrage of releases means we haven't had much time to devote to individual wines. From today's offerings, don't overlook Brane-Cantenac, where Henri Lurton has made another wondrous wine to rival his sumptuous 2009:
'Essence of Margaux in a very good year for the commune, this is savoury, spicy and elegant with sweet, toasty oak and leafy, tobacco-like undertones. There's a deceptive amount of tannin here, which means that the wine should reward cellaring, and a sappy lift of acidity on the back of the palate. An impressive follow up to the 2009. 15+ years. 95 points.' - Tim Atkin MW, timatkin.com
It's also worth pointing out that we still have a few cases of one of the defining wines of Bordeaux, and one which can easily stand its ground against any of the first growths. A third of the current market price of the (comparable) 1990 vintage, Montrose is beginning to look like a relative bargain.
'Jean Delmas believes this is one of the all-time great wines of Montrose, comparable to the 2009, 1990, 1989, 1959, 1947, 1945 and 1929. The 2010 harvest took place between September 27 and October 15, and the final blend is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot that achieved 13.75% natural alcohol, a fraction above the 2009's 13.7%. Somewhat reminiscent of the 1989, only even inkier and richer, the 2010 boasts a dense purple color along with glorious aromatics of blueberries, boysenberries, black currants and a crushed chalk-like minerality. The tannins are less intrusive than I would have suspected for such a young Montrose, but they are unquestionably ripe and well-integrated. Deep, full-bodied and massive, this beauty should be at its finest between 2018-2050. 96-99+ points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com
Yesterday afternoon's other most notable releases were...
Clos du Marquis: 'This second wine of a chateau that officially doesn't have one – it comes from its own designated vineyards – is even more marked by Cabernet Sauvignon this year, but it's another classy red: cassis scented, finely balanced and elegant, with plenty of tannin and fruit concentration in reserve. 15+ years. 94 points.' - Tim Atkin MW, timatkin.com
'For many of the classified growths in the Medoc, the quality of the second wines has soared over the last 5-6 years, and Alter Ego is no exception. The 2010 Alter Ego is the richest ever made. Relatively high in alcohol, this is a blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon and 49% Merlot. Thick and juicy, its black fruits intermixed with acacia flowers, camphor, and subtle smoky notes are followed by a plump, corpulent style of wine with loads of fruit, glycerin and texture. Drink it over the next 15 or so years. Drink 2013-2026. 90-92 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com
'The finest wine from this estate since their glorious 1982, the 2010 Petit Village possesses aromas of licorice, black cherries, cassis, truffles and oak. Powerful and deep with a corpulent texture, a silky mouthfeel and a wonderful lushness, it will be drinkable in 2-3 years and last for 15 or more. Drink 2013-2028. 90-92 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com
'A prodigious, blockbuster effort from Pichon-Longueville Baron, the 2010 is reminiscent of this estate's titanic offerings in 1989 and 1990, but may be even greater with 30 years of longevity. Kudos to proprietor AXA and general director Christian Seeley. It was absolutely compelling on each of the three times I tasted it. Black/purple-colored with super concentration and richness as well as full body, it offers an awesome display of creme de cassis, blackberry liqueur, licorice, camphor and spring flowers. Stunningly pure and unctuously textured with high but sweet, well-integrated tannins, this superstar of the vintage is definitely a wine to purchase as a future. Drink 2015-2040. 97-99 points+.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com
Thus far today...
Lascombes: 'While this large property is composed of a huge number of small parcels that must require military-like precision to harvest, the quality of the wines over the last decade has been remarkable. The 2010 may turn out to be the greatest Lascombes ever made. It boasts a dense purple color along with an extraordinarily uplifted set of aromatics consisting of blueberry liqueur, black cherries, subtle smoke, crushed rocks and restrained oak. Massive fruit, an unctuous texture, a skyscraper-like mid-palate and stunning definition (because of good acids and a modest pH) have resulted in a formidable wine that will benefit from 5-6 years of cellaring, and should keep for 30 years. A brilliant effort! Drink 2016-2046. 94-97 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com
Pavie Macquin: 'Although not as potent alcoholically as its 2009 counterpart (14.5% in 2010 versus 15% in 2009), the 2010 is still a very big wine. The final blend was 85% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon and production was slightly more than 3,400 cases. This black/purple-tinged wine exhibits lots of minerality (from this terroir's clay and limestone soils) as well as the entire spectrum of black fruits. Full-bodied and backward, it's like drinking crushed limestone/chalk when you taste this intense, tannic, powerful wine. It will require 8-10 years of cellaring and should evolve for 35-40+ years. Drink 2019-2059. 96-98 points+.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com
Haut-Bailly: 'My best score ever given to the cru en primeur. One of the most intense emotions of this en primeur campaign and the best Haut Bailly I have ever tasted - right behind the 1964. Palate is the word. Magnificent on entry: pulpy, gushing with fruit and immediately showing a finely woven texture. Wonderfully aromatic, broad and generous on the mid-palate, with fat and an unsurpassed velvety feel in the mouth. The superb mix of pulp and fresh lively fruit is the terroir finest expression. A terrific wine, showing poise, amazing charm and complexity. A beauty! 94-95 points.' - Jean-Marc Quarin, quarin.com
Pichon Longueville Lalande 'A blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. The Cabernet Sauvignon dominates the nose with blackberry, rose petal, pencil box and a touch of cedar all with very fine definition. The palate is silky smooth on the entry, very harmonious and focused, fine mineralité coming through, sensual and velvety towards the ripe finish. Extremely pure but powerful, this is a precise, brilliantly executed Pichon-Lalande. I bet Sylvie Cazes is hoping that all vintages will be like this. Drink 2016-2040. 95-97 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal
Halves & magnums £10 extra per 9 litre case; other formats on request
View all 2010 Bordeaux en primeur