2010 Bordeaux en primeur: Batailley, Armailhac

01/06/11

In 2010, the bit of Pauillac which lies slightly inland behind Lynch-Bages and Pichon-Baron appears to have enjoyed a purple patch. Grand-Puy-Lacoste is one of the wines of the vintage; Haut-Batailley is the best we've ever tasted. Perhaps the marriage of Xavier Borie's daughter to Philippe Casteja's son Frederic has created a new, benign sort of rivalry? Perhaps each is benefitting from a greater exchange of ideas. Last year, Batailley was one of the bargains of the vintage, and the wine sold out (and oversold) from the chateau within a matter of hours. The Casteja family rate their 2010 above that wine - and this may well be the best buy in Pauillac this year.

'Set to be one of the bargains of the vintage among the classed growths, this is comparatively forward and approachable for the vintage, possibly because the yields were higher than in some of its neighbours' vineyards. This is a silky, easy-going blend with fine tannins, hints of cedarwood and cigar box and smooth, chocolate and cassis flavours. 10+ years. 95 points.' - Tim Atkin MW, timatkin.com

'A blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon (compared to 74% in 2009), 19% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc cropped at 36hl/ha. Philippe Casteja said that they picked quite late, the last Cabernet coming in on the 19th October (about three days later than in 2009.) The alcohol level comes in at 13.5 degrees. The Batailley '10 has quite a creamy, sensual bouquet with macerated black fruits, a touch of crushed raspberry and a hint of vanilla pod. The definition is very fine. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, tensile tannins, a very good sense of symmetry that was discovered with the 2009, with the vintages telltale signs of graphite on the long finish. Very impressive. Quintessential Pauillac. 93-95 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal

The Casteja family's other releases this morning included an excellent 2010 Haut-Bages Monpelou, their Pauillac cru bourgeois situated just behind Grand-Puy-Lacoste. And another flurry of activity ahead of tomorrow's bank holiday in France: Baroness Philippine de Rothschild's impressive Armailhac; from St-Julien, Bruno Borie's Lalande-Borie; and, from the right bank, a perennial Uncorked favourite, Bellegrave, currently under conversion to biodynamism (ask Jim about his trip to M Bouldy's loo). /AR

Halves & magnums £10 extra per 9 litre case; other formats on request

View all 2010 Bordeaux en primeur