2010 Bordeaux en primeur: Angelus, Leoville-Las Cases
30/06/11
Tomorrow the Bordelais celebrate Hong Kong Special Administrative Region Establishment Day and we don't expect to see any releases. We're celebrating too, with a tasting of wines and port from the Douro's most dynamic proprietor (he'll also be paying us a visit early lunchtime). Back to today, and first this morning was Angelus. Proprietor Hubert de Boüard studied under Emile Peynaud - the forefather of modern oenology, who died in 2004 - at Bordeaux's Faculté d'Oenologie but, despite being a qualified oenologist, continues to employ the services of renowned consultant Michel Rolland. A big Burgundy fan, Hubert has transformed the property since taking full control in 1985. A good friend of Bond actor Daniel Craig, Angelus famously made an appearance in Casino Royale but this celebrity status isn't unwarranted: Angelus ranks among the very best wines of St-Emilion - Cheval Blanc and Ausone included.
'A blend of 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Franc cropped at 32 hectoliters per hectare, the 2010 may not hit the peaks of the extraordinary 2009 or 2005, but it is another fabulous wine from proprietor Hubert de Bouard. It boasts an inky/blue/purple color along with abundant aromas of acacia flowers, blueberry liqueur, black raspberries, licorice and subtle toasty oak in the background. A notion of graphite emerges as the wine sits in the glass, which tends to be a characteristic of Angelus. Long, rich, dense and full-bodied with high but well-integrated tannins, it will rival the 1989 and 1990 as well as the 2009 and 2005 as one of the finest wines made at this estate. At present, the 2009 has a slight edge because of its more sumptuous texture. Nevertheless, the 2010 is a great wine with a future of at least 30 years! 94-96 points+.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com
Then came the final release from St-Julien. I was lucky enough to be at dinner with Didier Cuvelier of Leoville-Poyferre the night Parker's scores were released. He was over the moon to receive exactly the same points as his neighbour across the road - Poyferre, after all, sells at under half the price of Leoville-Las Cases. Jean-Hubert Delon's property is, of course, the property by which the other St-Juliens judge themselves. It's a wine of classical proportions and impressive longevity. And it's the closest thing to a first growth - for under a third of the money.
'(A blend of 82% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 8% cabernet franc; 74 IPT; 3.56 pH; 75% new oak; 13.7% alcohol) Deep ruby with purple highlights. Sexy, classic, captivating cabernet sauvignon aromas of blackcurrant, graphite and cedar complicated by minerals. Silky-sweet, fine-grained and almost gentle on entry, with well-integrated acidity contributing to an impression of finesse. Then dense and firm in the mid-palate, with rich, brooding cassis, gunflint and mineral flavors. This is considerably less showy today than the 2009 was at a similar stage of development, conveying a more austere aspect to its dark fruit flavors. Finishes pure, seamless and very long, with incredibly silky tannins. How Jean-Hubert Delon manages to get tannins this sweet and smooth every vintage is beyond me. 94-97 points.' - Ian D'Agata, internationalwinecellar.com
Halves & magnums £10 extra per 9 litre case; other formats on request
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