2009 Haut-Bergey, Tronquoy-Lalande

21/05/10

All quiet this morning in Bordeaux as chateau owners prepare for Vinexpo Asia-Pacific in Hong Kong next week. But a couple of exciting wines from yesterday afternoon, including another must-buy on a tight budget, and a Pessac-Leognan which is worthy of that tag also. It's no coincidence that the recent resurgence of Chateau Montrose has occurred since Jean-Bernard Delmas was put in charge by new owners the Bouygues family, aided by the dynamic Nicolas Glumineau (pictured) as technical director. Whilst Montrose itself is inevitably going to be beyond the means of all but a lucky few, from next door comes a wine from the same team which is a more than worthy alternative. Tronquoy-Lalande is a blend of 42% Cabernet, 51% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot cropped at 46 hl/ha. It's a proper St-Estephe:

'This estate, which was acquired by the international telecommunications giant, the French-based Martin Bouygues, has produced their finest wines to date under the guidance of Jean-Bernard Delmas (who made every Haut-Brion between 1961 and 2003). Delmas, who was coaxed out of retirement to apply his enviable talents in St.-Estephe, is a master at attaining sweet tannins, which is always a challenge in this northern appellation. The 2009 Tronquoy Lalande boasts a dense purple color along with a beautiful bouquet of boysenberries, spring flowers, black currants, and a hint of ink, a full-bodied, supple, opulent mouthfeel, and a long finish. It should drink nicely for 10-15 years. 90-93 points*.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

Haut-Bergey is an ancient property resurrected by Sylviane Garcin-Cathiard, the sister of Daniel Cathiard of Smith-Haut-Lafitte, who bought the estate in 1991. Having initially relied heavily on consultants Michel Rolland and Christophe Ollivier, since 2001 winemaking has been entrusted to Veronique Sancet and the team has grown steadily in confidence. Low yields - around 30 hl/ha for the red - show in the finished wine: the 2009 is beautifully concentrated, dark in colour, earthy but fresh with lovely dusty tannins. We liked it a lot.

'One of the best over-achieving, value-priced wines in Pessac-Leognan, Haut-Bergey's vineyard enjoys a superb location near Malartic-Lagraviere and Domaine de Chevalier. Composed of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Cabernet Franc and a dollop of Petit Verdot, the opaque purple-hued 2009 reveals a big, exuberant nose of charcoal, black currants, sweet cherries, and graphite. Dense and full-bodied, with beautiful purity, texture, and length, it should drink well for 20+ years. P.S. I also tasted the brilliant 2000 Haut-Bergey in March, 2010, and it was still a youngster in terms of its development. 92-94 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

View all 2009 Bordeaux en primeur