2009 Tour de By

14/04/10
In contrast to last year, when we offered Angelus adjacent to our preliminary report at the beginning of April, this year will probably not see any major releases for a while since many smaller properties which don't normally sell en primeur will do so, and the grander chateaux will want those to pass through the system before they begin to make their own appearances. Well, that's my theory, anyway. So, if you're in the market for some Arnauton Cuvee Le Grand Sol or some Devise d'Ardilley this has been your week. As we said last week, there are thousands of properties in Bordeaux and there are many which make very good wine for very little money. But for the sake of en primeur we'll focus on some regular favourites which we feel confident will repay a few years' worth of cellaring and this morning saw the release of the first of those.
La Tour de By, one of our must-buys on a tight budget, can trace its history back to 1599 so only for the most recent portion has it been a favourite at Uncorked. Bought in a pretty rundown state by Marc Pages in 1965, he worked hard to improve it until his recent death. That hard work is now continued by his two grandsons, Frederic Leclerc and Benjamin Richer de Forges. The vineyards lie several miles north of St-Estephe on a gravel bank which is the highest point in the Medoc north of Pauillac. Always a well-made wine which repays cellaring (we currently have stock of the delicious 2001 at £16.30/bottle), the family price it very reasonably en primeur and, with a prix de sortie just 14% over 2008's, the 2009 comes highly recommended. Concentrated, with more fruit and less austerity than the 2005, according to Benjamin, it scored a whopping 17 points from Jancis Robinson:
'Super-fragrant, scented wine with medium weight. Glossy nose with no hint of excess sweetness or alcohol. Sweet palate entry and then very well managed tannins and the exotic black fruits richness of 2009 insinuates itself even on this bastion of Medoc restraint!'
View all 2009 Bordeaux en primeur