2009 Haut-Batailley, Potensac, Sociando

03/06/10

It is said the only reason Sociando-Mallet wasn't included in the 1855 classification was that it was too far from Bordeaux for samples to be delivered for assessment. Jean Gautreau, who started off in the negociant business in the 1940s, bought the property in 1969 primarily as a holiday home. But good friends in the industry - among them Jean-Michel Cazes of Lynch-Bages - convinced him of the property's potential and, with gritty determination, Gautreau set about its revival. Today it is the finest non-classed growth in Bordeaux and its wines bear more than a passing resemblance to those of Montrose, which lies on the same gravel croupe above the estuary further south. With a water-retentive subsoil of clay-limestone, the vineyard performs well in dry vintages like 2009, and, though patience will be required, this may turn out to be the finest Sociando-Mallet Gautreau has produced.

Staying in the northern Medoc, we have the typically well priced Potensac, owned by the Delon family of Leoville-Las Cases. We liked this a lot, a very firm must-buy on a tight budget: 'A sleeper of the vintage, the 2009 is probably the finest Potensac ever made, eclipsing even the stunning 1982. This blend, dominated by both Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, hit 13.9% alcohol, but the pH is a normal 3.58. Dense, rich, and full-bodied with lots of freshness, the wine reveals abundant red and black currant fruit, a distinctive minerality, and a plush, full-bodied mouthfeel. It should drink well for 10-15+ years. 89-91 points*.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

And now the first of Xavier Borie's two superb Pauillacs. In contrast to the uncompromising approach of brother Bruno at Ducru-Beaucaillou, Xavier Borie makes wines for drinking and enjoying, and believes the price shouldn't detract from the experience. If there's a more agreeable proprietor in Bordeaux we've yet to meet him, and his 2009 Haut-Batailley, as predicted, has an excellent quality-price ratio. 'This Haut-Batailley has a tight, quite elegant nose, pert black fruits, blackberry leaf, a touch of sous-bois, graphite, a hint of undergrowth. It needs time to expand and blossom in the glass. The palate is very fresh with fine tannins, surfeit with coiled energy, the finish very vibrant, slightly Oriental with faint hints of Hoi Sin and even a touch of yellow plum. Very harmonious on the finish. Excellent... it reminds me of the superb '06. 92-94 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal

View all 2009 Bordeaux en primeur