2009 Coutet, Rieussec

07/05/10

We wouldn't normally offer Pomerol's Chateau Bellegrave en primeur but then 2009 isn't a normal vintage. Jean-Marie Bouldy never seems to put a foot wrong - we do a vertical tasting with him at the chateau each year and every vintage has something to offer - and the 2009 is lively, fresh and very pure. For those of you who can't wait, we have just shipped the last of his 2004 - absolutely delicious now and over the next five years.

The improvements wrought by Alfred Tesseron and the team from cult Chateau Pontet-Canet have really changed the vineyard - and therefore the wines - for the better at the southern Medoc's Chateau Senejac. Now biodynamic, it has gone from being a lightish luncheon claret to a lower yielding, deeper and fuller wine that much better demonstrates its inland terroir and the high proportion of the Cabernet grapes here.

No news yet on each of Sauternes and Barsac's greatest, but this morning two chateaux who regard themselves as the next best things:

'The Coutet 2009 is a sensational effort from Philippe Baly and his team. It has a fragrant nose of honey, vervain tea, pineapple, frangipane and apple-blossom, well defined if needing a little more vigour at the moment. The palate is vibrant on the entry, informed by touches of apricot and orange peel, very focused and tensile towards the long, sensuous, viscous finish. It has the same minerality exuded by Doisy-Daene and reminds me of a stellar '62 tasted just a few weeks previously. A magnificent Coutet. 96-98 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal

'The minerality and stoniness really comes through on the nose of this Rieussec, more than the 2007. The palate is very well balanced with superb acidity, real tension, steely with great precision with notes of apricot, white peach and honey on the beautifully defined finish. Probably the best Rieussec since the astounding 2001. 95-97 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal

View all 2009 Bordeaux en primeur