2009 Cantenac Brown, Quinault

11/06/10

We spoke to a negociant yesterday who's regretting having booked a holiday in July. No notable releases so far today, and just two after our offer yesterday. We're not the only ones with reservations about Cantenac Brown. Ian D'Agata tasted it three times with a different impression each time, and I'm afraid our note was closer to Neal Martin's than it was to his employer's: 'Definite prune aromas on the nose: over-mature: more Languedoc than Margaux. The palate is full-bodied with thick and chewy tannins. It is actually quite a pure, very agreeable Cabernet, but there is no sense of Bordeaux typicité (which is kinda what you and I pay for?). 84-86 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal. Our advice: buy Durfort-Vivens, or keep your powder dry for Brane-Cantenac and Rauzan-Segla.

And does the very modestly priced release of Cheval Blanc's newly acquired Quinault L'Enclos indicate that Cheval Blanc will emerge likewise? Dream on! From an inauspicious location within the sprawl of the town of Libourne, Quinault only survived as a vineyard because (medical) Dr Alain Raynaud, whose family owns - among others - Croix de Gay in Pomerol, discovered that the ancient vineyard was to be cleared to make way for housing. It may not be the greatest terroir in St-Emilion, but Reynaud went to great lengths to make the most of it, and this meticulously made wine numbers amongst the best of the modern style in Bordeaux. 'Now owned by the proprietors of Cheval Blanc, the 2009 Quinault l'Enclos (composed of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon) exhibits an opaque purple color, notes of licorice, incense, raspberries, and black cherries, medium body, elegant, stylish flavors, and no hint of oak. This is a beautifully made, pure, deep wine that continues to confirm what Dr Alain Raynaud suspected when he bought this property in 1997. The naysayers all said this terroir was suspect, but that has been proven wrong by the wines that have been produced. This 2009 should drink well for 10-20 years. 90-92 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

Despite our best endeavours, we failed to secure more than three quarters of the volume of Pavie Macquin we bought last year, and we're unlikely to be able to offer any for general sale.

View all 2009 Bordeaux en primeur