2009 Labadie, Gurgue, Poujeaux, Moussas

Nicolas Thienpont

19/05/10

If, like us, you've been marvelling these last few days at some of the 2009 opening prices, we have just the antidote with these first three wines, all three must-buys on a tight budget. Far from the madding crowd, Chateau Labadie lies on good chalky limestone and clay soil outside Begadan, close to La Tour de By. Until 1988 the crop went to the local coop but since the young Jerome Bibey took over from his father the quality has risen dramatically, as those who've bought the 2002 and 2005 vintages from our shop will attest. Under the radar of our regular critics - so no inflationary effect on price - this will probably be the cheapest 2009 we offer:

'Fruit confit, blackcurrant-liqueur, minty freshness, full-bodied and dense, mocha, animal notes, tannins in evidence. 16/20.' - Le Point

You won't find better value in Margaux this vintage than Claire Villars' Chateau La Gurgue. With vineyards superbly located close to Chateau Margaux, this is quite a robust wine which will be very enjoyable after 5 years in the cellar. Top of the Moulis for us was Chateau Poujeaux, now owned by Philippe Cuvelier and his son Matthieu who have resurrected Clos Fourtet over the past decade, but run by Nicolas Thienpont of Pavie Macquin (pictured left):

'Full and very velvety, with round and juicy tannins. Creamy. New ownership here is really making a difference in wine quality; this is the best ever after maybe the 1929. 93-96 points.' - James Suckling, winespectator.com

Frederic Casteja told me yesterday that he thought they'd sold Batailley too cheap. Good news for Uncorked® customers - we still have stock available - and there's more good news in that the family released their excellent Pomerol, Domaine de l'Eglise, at barely more, and the steadily improving fifth growth Lynch-Moussas, the Pauillac home of Philippe Casteja, for rather less.

'The Merlots were cropped between the 17th and 28th September, the Cabernet Franc on 5th October at 37hl/ha, a blend of 96% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc, this has a lifted nose that shows much great precision than recent vintages of this ancient Pomerol vineyard. Blackberry, wild hedgerow, a touch of espresso, smoke and with continued aeration more and more minerality. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, much greater precision and focus then any vintage that I have tried in recent years (which was most of them in December!) Fresh black, slightly earthy fruit, very fine persistency, this is unequivocally the first Domaine de L'Eglise that is realized the propicity of its enviable terroir on the Pomerol plateau. 92-94 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal

'A blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon and 28% Merlot, cropped at 39hl/ha, this has a very tight bouquet with notes of blackberry, briary, a touch of undergrowth and with aeration, a hint of black plum. Good definition. The palate is medium-bodied, very harmonious and pure with an almost Margaux-like tannins. Very focused with blackberry, boysenberry, a touch of sandalwood, gentle and elegant towards the finish. This is the best Lynch Moussas...ever? Probably. 90-92 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal

View all 2009 Bordeaux en primeur