2009 Phelan Segur
09/06/10
May-Eliane de Lencquesaing, whom Stephen Brook aptly describes as warm-hearted but imperious, presided over Pichon Lalande for many years after the death of her husband and had a reputation for acting like Chelsea and sacking managers she felt to be underperforming. Under pressure from other shareholders to sell, she finally passed the reins to Champagne Roederer in 2006. But there is continuity. May-Eliane's nephew, the splendidly named Comte Gildas d'Ollone remains in overall charge of the estate and the wines remain splendid too. Under the new owners, Reserve de la Comtesse looks set to become a permanent addition to that rare group which are not so much second wines as worthy wines in their own right - like Forts de Latour and Clos du Marquis. Indeed, at Pichon, as at Latour and Leoville-Las Cases, there is a third wine, but 2009 is the first vintage where Gildas has found the wine strong enough to release en primeur.
'The finest second wine they have made, the 2009 Reserve de Comtesse is composed of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc. Flavorful and full-bodied with loads of texture and opulence, it offers up aromas of forest floor and black fruits. The surprisingly high tannin level is barely noticeable given the sweetness of the fruit and abundant glycerin. Nevertheless, the 13% alcohol is right in line with that of the Pichon Lalande. Drink the Reserve de Comtesse over the next 10-15 years. 91-93 points*.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com
Late yesterday came Carmes Haut-Brion which, unlike some of the critics, we liked very much, but which is already sold out to purchasers of the 2008 (still available at £270, by the way), and to wish listers. And the only other notable release is Phelan Segur. In, it would appear, another example of a Bordeaux proprietor making a small fortune having started with a large one, Thierry Gardinier this year sold 22 of his finest hectares to Martin Bouygues of Chateau Montrose. This is a pity, because the Gardiniers have worked hard to raise the standard since they bought the property in 1985. The philosophy is to 'make wines to be drunk to the dregs at dinner,' - not too powerful, but restrained and elegant.
'Like many of the top 2009s, Phelan-Segur is a huge, full-bodied effort with massive fruit as well as good freshness, precision, and elegance. This is all rather paradoxical given previous great vintages that either lean toward cooler vintage characteristics or hot ones. This 2009 possesses both styles. It exhibits lots of mulberry, boysenberry, and crushed, jammy black fruits, abundant tannin, medium to full body, an opulent mouthfeel, and enough structure to evolve for two decades or more. This is a sleeper of the vintage. 90-92 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com
Looking back at the release of the 2005s in 2006, the first of the first growths, Haut-Brion, came out on the 12th June, followed by Lafite on the 21st, Mouton on the 22nd, Margaux on the 23rd, and Latour on the 26th. But with the colossal worldwide interest in the 2009s, chateau owners continue to solicit the views of their courtiers, negociants and customers in order to determine their release prices, and to watch how the market reacts to peer group offerings. So with the majority of the other big names yet to come (Jean-Michel Laporte at Conseillante told us just this morning that their offer is not imminent), and the pace of releases having slowed to a trickle, we can only presume the campaign won't reach its climax until at least the end of the month. Still, one thing's for sure: it'll all be over before August so the French can go on holiday!
View all 2009 Bordeaux en primeur