2009 Palmer, Pape-Clement, Canon

22/06/10

The moment we tasted it we certainly thought it. But dare we say it? Yes, we dare. 2009 Palmer is even better than their stupendous 2005. A very definite money-no-object must-buy, we can only think ourselves lucky that Parker didn't appreciate it even more than he did (his mark is exactly the same as it was for the 2005 at the same stage). But we're with Jean-Marc Quarin, who gives it his equal second highest score, after Latour and Cheval Blanc, and level with Mouton and Le Pin:

'My best rating ever given to this wine during futures campaigns Showing a lovely, intense, dark and black color, this wine offers a great and complex nose that evokes black cherry, coffee and cream. From that perspective, it is similar to a Pomerol. Really surprising and delightful! Fantastic on entry, this 2009 Palmer delivers a wide-open, cheerful and powerful profile, yet of laser-like precision. Opulent on the mid-palate, this wine develops particularly flavorful over an overall tender character. The newest sensation comes from the finish where the 2009 Palmer provides an unprecedented tannic weaving which closely resembles to the power of cabernet sauvignon. Yet, the portion of cabernet sauvignon is no higher than usual. This is probably a magnificent terroir effect. Superb! Palmer is a blend of 52% merlot, 41% cabernet sauvignon, and 7% petit verdot. The yields are 34 hl/ha. Alcohol content is 13.9% ; pH 3.75 ; IPT 88. My opinion is that this 2009 will turn into a more classic profile than 2005, less marked by alcohol along with an unprecedented weaving. This is a wine that will be pleasant to drink young yet that will provide a very long aging potential. It is therefore highly recommended in magnum. 95-96 points.' - Jean-Marc Quarin, quarin.com

Having been too expensive last year, Pape-Clement is one wine which hasn't come as such a shock this time, emerging slightly cheaper than the current price for the 2005:

'Vibrant blackcurrant, blackberry and smoke aromas show noteworthy depth and purity. Big and ripe on the palate, but with lovely balance to its black fruit and smoke flavors. The very long, pure finish features a lingering mineral streak and very fine tannins. This exceptional vintage of Pape Clement packs an amazing amount of concentration on a seemingly weightless frame. More important still, although it pushes the ripeness envelope as most of the wines of Bernard Magrez do, it manages to come across as refined and graceful, even though it's almost brutally powerful. 93-96 points.' - Ian D'Agata, internationalwinecellar.com

The same can't be said for Canon, sister chateau of Rauzan-Segla, but this is the best since (at least) the '82. A small quantity is available first come, first served.

I think we can safely say we've never seen Didier Cuvelier look as animated as he did this year. And rightly so: his 2009 Leoville-Poyferre's a stunner: opulent, exotic, even thrilling. So as you can see from our picture, chateau owners don't come to resemble their wines. We are in the process of finalising purchases and allocations on this as well as today's releases of La Conseillante, Pavillon Rouge and Blanc (where much less has been released than last year), Pichon-Longueville, as well as yesterday's Montrose.

In other news, after much coercion we've managed to lay our hands on a little more of two of the vintage's most wanted wines, and can offer them for general sale for the first time: Leoville-Barton, at the opening price, and Haut-Bailly, at an average of first and second tranche prices. Available first come, first served.

View all 2009 Bordeaux en primeur