2009 Pagodes, Sarget, Giscours

04/06/10

None of the biggest names has divided the critics more in 2009 than Cos d'Estournel. Whilst Parker says it's one of the greatest young wines he's ever tasted, his associate Neal Martin questions whether it belongs on Bordeaux's left bank. Ironic, then, that the second wine, Les Pagodes de Cos, meets with much wider appeal. Why? Well, there's no doubt Cos is an impressive wine. But is it too impressive? Only time will tell, but we thought Pagodes was stunning - more charming, and apparently more drinkable, than Cos itself.

'The 2009 Les Pagodes de Cos is also a remarkable offering. Composed of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot, it tips the scales at 14.5% alcohol, and is better than most Cos d'Estournel vintages produced in the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s. It is a full-bodied, opulently concentrated wine of amazing richness, density, and intensity. As with the grand vin, the harvest began on September 26 and finished on October 10. This wine possesses this vintage's classic characteristics of enormous power, massive fruit, and extraordinary freshness and precision - largely unprecedented, particularly for Cabernet-based wines in the Medoc. 91-94 points*.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

In 2009, Gruaud-Larose not only produced the best young wine we've tasted from the property but also one of our favourites amongst a peer group full of overachievers. Owned by the charming but shy Jean Merlaut since 1997, his considerable resources have funded steady improvements, reducing yields and increasing sorting. No herbicides or pesticides are used and all fertilising is done with composted manure from local cattle. The stricter selection has also been applied to the second wine, Sarget de Gruaud-Larose, and the increase in quality is notable. This is a weighty and fruity St-Julien which will provide delicious drinking in its first decade and, at this very reasonable release price, a must-buy on a tight budget.

Having made it as a third growth in the 1855 classification, Chateau Giscours began a period of graceful decline that lasted almost a century and a half. That is in the past however, and so, moving on, we find Giscours under new owner Dutchman Eric Albada Jelgersma finally achieving the sort of quality that a third growth with this sort of terroir should. Yields are low for Bordeaux and aspirations are high. The 2009 looks set to be the best in almost 40 years.

View all 2009 Bordeaux en primeur