2009 Lagrange

15/06/10

2009 Lagrange is without doubt a very good wine but, such is the strength of St-Julien in this vintage that, for us, it was outclassed by all the other big names in the commune with the exception of Beychevelle. But what do we know? Yesterday afternoon the Medoc's largest classed growth - normally popular for offering good value - released at a price 32% higher than that of the 2005, making it more expensive than the current market price for that vintage. What's more, the 2006 received a higher score from Parker when tasted from barrel (91-94), and we can offer stock of that at just £240 per case for immediate delivery.

The silence this morning as the market reacted to the Lagrange price has now been broken by the eagerly awaited release of Pontet-Canet, one of the undisputed stars of this vintage - and every other recent one. We are in the process of finalising allocations and will be offering the wine, in the first place, to those who bought last year, and then - if there's any left - to wish listers. In the unlikely event that there's any residual stock, it will be offered on our website.

'It's no surprise that proprietor Alfred Tesseron has produced a possibly perfect 2009. He's been on a roll since 1994, and no other producer has done more work in the vineyard than Tesseron, who has moved to 100% bio-dynamic farming, reduced yields drastically, and instituted a draconian selection process. This vineyard, which sits on the high plateau of Pauillac adjacent to Mouton Rothschild, has produced a 2009 of extraordinary intensity and purity. It is outrageously concentrated, with silky tannin (the sweetest I have ever tasted in a Pontet-Canet as well as the highest measured), an opaque purple color, and copious notes of graphite, cassis, licorice, and subtle smoke and forest floor. Full-bodied and unctuously textured with striking purity and definition, it is a wine of colossal weight as well as elegance (in itself a poster boy for this paradox in 2009). This brilliant Pauillac requires a decade of cellaring despite its voluptuous texture. It should evolve for 50-75 years. (Tasted four times.) 97-100 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

View all 2009 Bordeaux en primeur