2009 GPL, Prieure-Lichine, Calon-Segur

14/06/10

This morning, one of our favourite wines of the vintage - irrespective of price. The affable Xavier Borie puts his 2009 Grand-Puy-Lacoste into the same category as 1982, 1990, 1995 and 2005 - the best wines made here in the past half century. With a release price just 5% higher than the 2005 four years ago, it is considerably cheaper than those predecessors, and this is one of our strongest must buys for a high quality-price ratio. It is quintessential Pauillac which will provide fantastic drinking for two decades or longer.

'A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc picked the between the 24th September and 7th October. The nose is introverted and broody at first, hints of seaweed inflecting the pure black fruits. Very minerally – lots of character here. The palate is medium-bodied, the tannins a little firmer and [more] structured than other Pauillacs, which is exactly in keeping with the estate's style. Lovely poise on the finish, wonderful focus and edginess with a savoury note on the finish. Insistent grip. Superb persistency and yet typically conservative in its youth. No doubt it will demand at least ten years cellaring, but it will be worth the wait. 94-96 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal

Originally a Benedictine foundation but owned by the legendary Alexis Lichine for nearly forty years and by his son for another ten, Prieure-Lichine has always had a good reputation for its wine. For those many years, it produced wines that were typical of the Margaux appellation, without necessarily being the most exciting. The Ballande group, a family with many interests in the wine business, who bought the estate in 1999, are looking to change this. Alexis Lichine built up the size of the estate considerably before his death and those seventy hectares are somewhat scattered across the commune, so there isn't a homogeneous terroir to call its own. But Lichine bought wisely and certainly was not interested in investing in land that wouldn't increase the overall quality of the estate. So the philosophy of the new owners is to make the most of the gravelly soils that most of the vines grow on, and go for quality by reducing yields, employing rigorous sorting, and increasing the concentration and ripeness of the wines. This style has emerged especially since the 2004 vintage and in years like 2009 is especially effective at expressing the Margaux character, though it shows more after a few years in bottle, while making a rich and satisfying wine, which can be drunk earlier.

Also this morning, Calon-Segur, always one of the highest rated St-Estephes. Our allocation is small, but we currently have a few cases remaining for general sale.

View all 2009 Bordeaux en primeur